São João do Aporé: the district on the riverbank

São João do Aporé is a small district on the banks of the Aporé River, in the border region between Goiás and Mato Grosso do Sul, well known to people who like to fish. It has no built attractions, events square or park: what it has is the river, simple guesthouses, anglers' houses and silence. For those visiting Lagoa Santa who want a whole day on the river, it is one of the region's natural destinations. This guide brings together what we know about the district, with an important warning about the age of the information.

Where it is

The district is on the bank of the Aporé River, the river of about 200 km that rises in Goiás, runs over a rocky bed and flows into the Paranaíba, forming the border between the two states for much of its course. The guesthouses' contact numbers use area code 67, from Mato Grosso do Sul, which indicates that the lodging is on the Mato Grosso do Sul bank, opposite the Goiás side. In practice, for those arriving from Lagoa Santa, the district works as an extension of the river itself: only the bank changes.

The character of the place: anglers

São João do Aporé is a village of anglers, in the most literal sense. The people who live there make their living from the river or from serving those who come to fish: they rent boats, guide visitors to the fishing spots, sell bait and provide lodging. The typical visitor arrives by car with a cooler, a rod and an outboard motor, stays two or three days and goes home. Do not expect a restaurant with an extensive menu, a pharmacy or a gas station: refuel and buy what you need in Lagoa Santa, Itajá or Paranaíba before you go.

This character has an upside for those who do not fish: the river there is calm, the mornings are quiet and the residents know every pool. If you just want to see the Aporé up close, swim in a calm stretch and have fresh fish for lunch, the district delivers.

Lodging in São João do Aporé

The known options are few and simple. We repeat: this is old data, confirm before you travel.

Anglers' houses, like Paulo Sérgio's, are the most common alternative: a whole house, with a kitchen and space to store gear and a boat. They work well for groups of four to six people. Ask whether there is bed linen, a refrigerator, a freezer for the catch and a place to moor. If you prefer to sleep in Lagoa Santa and visit the district only for the day, see Where to stay in Lagoa Santa.

Things to do

• Fishing. The reason almost everyone comes. Hire a local boatman, respect the closed season and the quotas, and carry your recreational fishing license. Rules and tips on Fishing in Lagoa Santa.
• Boat trip. Without the rod, the same boatman will take you around the pools and rapids. See what to agree on at Boat trips on the Aporé River.
• River swimming. Only in calm stretches recommended by residents; the bed is rocky and the level rises when it rains upstream.
• Misty sunrise. From June to August, the mist over the river in the early hours makes for the most beautiful photos in the region.
• Eating fish. Ask at the guesthouse; the fish of the day is usually cooked to order, with no fixed menu.

How to get there from Lagoa Santa

Access to the district is by dirt road or simple paving, and the route depends on which bank you arrive by. Before leaving, ask at your guesthouse or at the CIAT, (64) 3640-1224, which is the best way at the moment: in the rainy season, dirt stretches become impassable for low cars. Use GPS with caution, as it may suggest non-existent crossings or private roads.

Practical rules for the road:

• a full tank when leaving Lagoa Santa or Itajá;
• water and snacks in the car;
• travel by day: there are animals on the road at night and stretches with no mobile signal;
• from October to March, check road conditions on the day.

Travelers from Mato Grosso do Sul can arrive from the Paranaíba side; see From Campo Grande and Paranaíba (MS).